IMHO, there are two very relevent, and different sorts of questions alluded to in your post. I’m far from the oldest guy on the block, but I do have 10 years of professional experience. I choose to handcode all of my templates too. I abhor WYSIWYG editors not only because they typically shield users from the syntax they should be learning, but also because they kludge the source code all up. Intuitive coding style, using proper indentation and such, is paramount to code reusability and maintenance on larger projects.
Having said that, there is one essential “program” (family) for any site with more than one page. That being a server-side application server of some sort, such as PHP with a MySQL backend. To hand-code 300 similar pages for a product catalog is a terrible practice in my mind. I was working with a designer who had made a few hundred travel destination pages for an agency. I broke down the style into about 8 templates and eliminated hundreds of documents, all of which would need to be modified if some aspect of the site design changed.
I personally have used Homesite for years and love it. It’s personal preference, and this is also commercial software. Eclipse is a very capable, extensible, open-source IDE. There is a version tailored to PHP development too. Deciding on a coding method is a personal choice, but don’t be a digital luddite. If someone wants to reject all design tools for a strictly old-school development style, I hope they draw all their graphic images on paper by hand too.