The best free HTML editor, I think, is HTML Kit, but it is not WYSIWYG. However, since you're not all too happy with FrontPage anyway, perhaps this won't matter. You can just use your web browser to load and display your web page as it develops.
If you just want a better free WYSIWYG HTML page designer/generator/editor, then, as Matttail suggests, NVu is probably the way to go.
The best free FTP program out there, in my opinion, is Smart FTP. It's always worked great for me!
There's really no good reason to go spend big bucks on other commercial programs. These Open Source programs do just as good -or better- a job, and for free!